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Composting bins are available from
the Board of Health office at Town Hall.
What is composting?
Composting
is a controlled process of decomposition of organic material. Naturally
occurring soil organisms recycle nitrogen, potash, phosphorus, and
other plant nutrients as they convert the material into humus.
Benefits of composting
Composting
is a convenient, beneficial and inexpensive way to handle your organic
waste and help the environment. Composting:
-
reduces
the volume of garbage requiring disposal;
-
saves
money for you and your community in reduced soil purchases and
reduced local disposal costs; and
-
enriches
the soil. Using compost adds essential nutrients, improves soil
structure, which allows better root growth, and increases moisture
and nutrient retention in the soil. Plants love compost!
What
you should compost?
Yard wastes
such as leaves, grass clippings and weeds make excellent compost.
Fruit and vegetable scraps, plus food wastes such as coffee grounds,
tea bags, and eggs shells, can be composted. To keep animals and odors
out of your pile, do not add meat, bones, fatty food wastes (such
as cheese, grease and oils), dog and cat litter, and diseased plants.
Do not add invasive weeds and weeds that have gone to seed to the
pile. Elements of a good compost pile With these principles in mind,
you can convert your organic wastes into resources by turning your
spoils to soil.
The Biodegraders
Nature has provided
an army of workers who specialize in decomposing organic material.
These "critters" - bacteria, fungi, molds, earthworms, insects
and other soil organisms - eat all types of organic material and in
the process convert nutrients into a form plants can utilize. Without
those compost critters, we would be surrounded by mountains of leaves
and the soil would be barren. The process of composting is simply
a matter of providing the soil organisms with food, water and oxygen.
They do the rest.
Organic Material
Organic material
contains varying amounts of carbon and nitrogen which nourish the
organisms naturally present in your compost pile. (Billions of bacteria
inhabit the surface of every leaf and blade of grass in your yard.)
The critters need both carbon and nitrogen. An easy way to provide
both of these is to remember that brown, woody materials, such as
autumn leaves, are high in carbon while green, moist materials, such
as grass clippings, are high in nitrogen (refer to "How to Make
a Compost Pile" below).
Alternating
layers of brown and green materials will yield finished compost in
three to eight months. Leaves alone break down in six to 15 months.
Grass clippings or food scraps composted alone result in unpleasant
odors because they contain more nitrogen than the compost organisms
can use. Layer leaves or straw with green material, or let it dry
until it turns brown before composting it alone.
Air
The compost critters
need oxygen, just as we do. Lack of oxygen will slow down the composting
process and cause odors. Turn your pile, fluff it with a hoe or compost
turning tool, or build air passages into the pile with cornstalks
to provide oxygen to the organisms.
Moisture
Compost organisms
need a moist environment. The pile should be as damp as a wrung-out
sponge, but not dripping wet. Make sure leaves are damp when you add
them to the compost pile because they will not break down if they
are dry. Since moisture evaporates as the pile heats up (a sign of
active composting), let rain and snow replace it, or add water during
dry spells. A cover helps retain moisture in hot weather.
How to Make a Compost Pile
There are as
many different ways to make compost as there are people who do it.
The following guidelines will get you started, but soon your own
experience will help you tailor a method that best fits your needs.
-
Build
or purchase a compost bin from the Board of Health Office in Town
Hall, or your local garden center or home store. Enclosed compost
piles keep out pests, hold heat and moisture in, and have a neat
appearance. Or, bins can be simply made of wire, wood, pallets,
concrete blocks, even garbage cans with drainage holes drilled
in them. In urban areas, rodent-resistant compost bins - having
a secure cover and floor and openings no wider than one-half inch
- must be used.
-
Set
up the bin in a convenient, shady area with good drainage. A pile
that is about three feet square and three feet high will help
maintain the heat generated by the composting organisms throughout
the winter. Although a smaller pile may not retain heat, it will
compost.
-
Start
the pile with a layer of coarse material such as corn stalks to
build in air passages. Add alternating layers of "brown"
and "green" materials with a shovelful of soil on top
of each layer. Shredding leaves or running over them with a lawn
mower will shorten the composting time. Be sure to bury food scraps
in the center of the pile.
| High Nitrogen
"Green" Ingredients |
High Carbon "Brown"
Ingredients |
| grass clippings |
autumn leaves |
| weeds |
|
| weeds |
straw |
| food wastes: fruit
& vegetables, coffee grounds, tea bags, egg shells |
paper towels,
napkins, bags, plates, coffee filters, tissue and newspaper |
| manure (cow, horse,
chicken, rabbit) |
cornstalks |
| seaweed |
wood chips |
| alfalfa hay/meal |
saw dust |
| blood meal |
pine needles |
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Add
water as you build the pile if the materials are dry.
-
As
time goes on, keep oxygen available to the compost critters by
fluffing the pile with a hoe or compost turning tool each time
you add material. A complete turning of the pile - so the top
becomes the bottom - in spring and fall should result in finished
compost within a year. More frequent turning will shorten the
composting time.
How
to use compost
When the composted materials look like rich, brown soil, it is
ready to use. Apply one-half to three inches of finished compost and
mix it in with the top four inches of soil about one month before
planting. Compost can be applied as a top dressing in the garden throughout
the summer. Compost is excellent for reseeding lawns, and it can be
spread one-quarter inch deep over the entire lawn to rejuvenate the
turf. To make potting soil, mix equal parts compost, sand and loam.
You may put the compost through a sieve to remove large particles
- these can go back into the pile.
Mulching
Grass clippings,
leaves and woody yard wastes can be used as mulch in gardens and around
shrubs to keep the soil moist, control weed growth and add nutrients.
Woody materials should be chipped or shredded. Use a mulch of pine
needles around acid-loving plants. Leaves will work first as mulch,
then as a soil enricher as they decompose. Grass clippings should
be dried before using as mulch. Do not mulch with grass clippings
which have been treated with herbicides; composting them first, however,
will break down the herbicides.
Composting without
a yard
Composting can
be done indoors using an earthworm farm. Not only can you recycle
your food scraps, you can also have a steady supply of fishing bait!
See MassDEP's vermicomposting
page.
For more information contact Mass. Dept.
of Environmental Protection (617-292-5500) or visit them at www.state.ma.us/dep/recycle/
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